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Climbing the John Muir Path: The Greatest Wilderness Hike in America


Even amongst lengthy trails, the John Muir Path, colloquially known as the JMT, is exclusive. It hovers round 8,000 ft for many of its 211 miles, crossing six main mountain passes in California’s Sierra Nevada vary. Whereas it’s named for early twentieth century naturalist John Muir, who based the Sierra Membership, the JMT itself parallels the commerce route as soon as utilized by the indigenous Paiute folks. Immediately, what most captivates folks about this path is the drama of the towering mountains coupled with the remoteness of the terrain, together with a 150-mile stretch with no single street crossing. 

The John Muir Path traverses 211 miles of the Excessive Sierra, together with Yosemite Nationwide Park and Kings Canyon Sequoia Nationwide Parks. Nationwide Geographic

For backpackers, the John Muir Path is seen as a kind of pilgrimage. A lot of the path’s infrastructure dates again to the flip of the 20 th century, and the seemingly immutable nature of the granite peaks that make up the Sierra Nevada may give the impression that you just’ve stepped totally out of the trendy period. You might be crossing the identical streams of snowmelt, passing the identical ice-cold alpine lakes, traversing the identical notches within the mountain passes as folks did 100 years in the past and even 1000’s of years in the past — at instances you’ll really feel as if you’re the one one that has ever been right here. The wilderness is at all times quiet, however generally the silence of the Sierra Nevadas echoes off the cliff faces, swallowing your footsteps till you might be one with the panorama. Even for the non-religious, mountaineering that top into the mountains for weeks on finish can grow to be a religious expertise. 

I hiked the vast majority of the John Muir Path myself in 2014, as a part of my hike of the Pacific Crest Path. Even with 700 miles of thru-hiking already beneath my belt, and a deliberate 20 % discount in mileage by way of the Excessive Sierra, I completed day by day utterly wiped, throwing down my sleeping bag because the solar turned the vary golden with the final gentle of the day. It’s one of many few sections of path that I dream of repeating — and I will surely plan to take extra time by way of it. 

Woman looks at view at the top of a JMT trail pass
The John Muir Path is a once-in-a-lifetime hike for a lot of backpackers, and with the suitable planning and coaching, you may make it occur. Adam Tycaster

All this would possibly sound intimidating, however mountaineering the John Muir Path is eminently doable. It’s a well-signed, fantastically maintained path. In contrast to main hikes just like the Pacific Crest Path or the Appalachian Path, you may get this one achieved with out quitting your job. Nevertheless it’s additionally a logistical problem to hike, and also you’ll seemingly must be in the very best form of your life to finish it. Right here’s what it is advisable to know to get began. 

Step 1: Get Your Allow

The John Muir Path may be very well-liked and, as a result of it is rather well-liked, the park service strictly limits the variety of folks on it at any given time. You possibly can anticipate to have your allow checked by rangers a number of instances alongside the JMT, so don’t skip this step. As a result of it’s so aggressive to get a slot on this path, I like to recommend you apply for each a northbound and southbound allow. In case you are so fortunate as to win a couple of lottery, you’ll be able to then select the one that the majority appeals to you.

Hiking toward Mather Pass on the JMT
Strict limits on permits signifies that JMT hikers can anticipate a solitude wilderness expertise, but it surely does imply that it is advisable to plan forward. Laura Lancaster

One of the best time to hike the John Muir Path is from early July by way of late September. A lot of the snow could have melted out by early July (besides in exceptionally heavy snow years) and gained’t begin up once more till October. Whilst you can hike the John Muir Path in June (and lots of PCT hikers do it every year), it tends to be a extra arduous expertise as a result of deep snow overlaying the passes. 

In contrast to different permitted trails, the JMT allow is an entry allow, so that you aren’t anticipated to know precisely how lengthy you’ll take or the place you’ll camp every night time right now. 

Allow Possibility 1: Hike Southbound from Yosemite Valley

These permits are dealt with by lottery by way of the recreation.gov web site for Yosemite Nationwide Park Wilderness Permits: Click on right here to get began. The lottery for every week of the summer time opens up 24 weeks prematurely. So if you happen to needed to hike in mid July, you’d be making use of on the finish of January. (That is why getting your allow is Step 1.) Here’s a full record of the dates

On the web site, click on on the large blue button that claims “Register for Open Lottery.” You’ll be prompted to create a recreation.gov account if you happen to don’t have already got one. After you enter your private info, scroll right down to the blue button that claims “Enter Selections” and enhance the variety of dates you might be making use of for to eight. (Once more, we’re attempting to maximise the percentages you get a allow.) Choose “Glad Isle -> Previous LYV (Donahue Cross Eligible)” and a date for every of the listings. Cough up the $10 and ship up a silent prayer.

Allow Possibility 2: Hike Northbound from Whitney Portal

The John Muir Path begins in Yosemite Valley and ends at Whitney Portal, so the second technique to hike the path is north from Whitney Portal. As a result of these permits are additionally utilized by hikers summiting the best peak within the Decrease 48 (Mount Whitney), additionally it is run by a lottery by way of Recreation.gov: Click on right here to get began. The lottery for the complete season’s permits opens on the identical date, February 1. You possibly can submit as much as 10 completely different dates at a time. 

Different Choices

If what you might be on the lookout for is an entire end-to-end hike of the John Muir Path, a southbound hike ranging from Glad Isles or a northbound hike ranging from Whitney Portal are your solely choices. In case you are extra versatile, nevertheless, there are dozens of how to entry massive parts of the John Muir Path from Yosemite Nationwide Park and Kings Canyon Sequoia Nationwide Parks, in addition to Inyo Nationwide Forest and Sierra Nationwide Forest. Contemplate what’s most vital to you, an entire thru-hike of the JMT versus a particular yr or timeframe on your hike. If it’s the latter, take a while to familiarize your self with different choices for accessing the path which are much less aggressive. 

Step 2: Begin Coaching

So that you scored your allow. Congratulations! Time to get began in your coaching. 

The extra you prepare earlier than your hike, the higher. Whereas widespread knowledge has it that one of the best ways to coach for a thru-hike is to load up your pack and hit the paths, the fact is that most individuals can’t match that into their frontcountry lives. One of the best they’ll do is load up their pack and hit the paths on the weekend, which isn’t going to chop it on an journey as lengthy and arduous because the John Muir Path. I like to recommend as an alternative taking a look at your every day and weekly routines and determining the place you’ll be able to substitute a visit by automotive for a visit on foot — getting in a spread of 5 to 10 miles a day is a superb objective (extra is healthier).

Are you able to stroll to the grocery retailer as an alternative of driving? To work? Might you permit your automotive at your youngster’s college for drop off and stroll dwelling? Constant excessive every day mileage is vital, as it is going to each strengthen your muscular tissues on your thru-hike and acclimate your ft and joints to pounding out the miles, which can scale back your odds of a stress-related damage. And sure, by all means, hit the path on the weekend to get some vertical miles in with a totally loaded pack. 

Hiking downhill on the JMT
The one actual technique to prepare for a thru-hike is to go on a thru-hike, however you’ll be able to assist to acclimate your physique to muscle fatigue and joint stress by growing your every day mileage proper now. Adam Tycaster

It’s additionally vital that you just prepare on your thru-hike utilizing the footwear you’ll truly be carrying in your thru-hike. That is the primary, and most vital, gear choice you’ll make earlier than getting began. Discovering a pair of footwear that you would be able to comfortably put on all day — no blisters, no stress accidents, no pointless soreness — is likely one of the most crucial issues you are able to do to make your hike a hit. Do that now. 

Two women crossing a river
Fast-dry path runners are more and more well-liked on hikes just like the John Muir Path as a result of many unbridged stream crossings.  Richard Lancaster

You might already know precisely what pair of footwear you need to use. But when you don’t like your present mountaineering footwear or path runners and are fascinated with switching, please learn OL’s story on the finest thru-hiking footwear. Right here, thru-hiker and bodily therapist Morgan Brosnihan shares what she’s discovered through the years from treating PCT thru-hikers. Seems, completely different footwear work for various people, and pinpointing the pair that may gel finest together with your specific ergonomics is the important thing. Contemplate this important studying for any aspiring thru-hiker. 

Step 3: Get Your Gear Collectively

Whereas not required, a number of folks use a possibility like a thru-hike of the JMT to rethink their backpacking equipment. Like with any arduous lengthy path, a lighter backpack is usually extra pleasurable to hold than a heavier backpack. Nevertheless, it is advisable to be comfy and skilled with the gear you might be carrying, so don’t decide to a single-trekking pole tent if you happen to aren’t positive you’ll need to set it up in heavy winds. 

Learn Subsequent: Backpacking Guidelines 

The Massive Three

The most important weight financial savings you may make in your equipment is with the Massive Three: your backpack, sleeping system (sleeping bag or quilt and sleeping pad), and your tent. Out of doors Life has achieved intensive checks on merchandise on this class, with an emphasis on what ultralight gear works properly for these which are new to ultralight gear. I’d encourage you to begin together with your tent, as you’ll be able to simply shave a few kilos off your equipment by switching to a best-in-class ultralight mannequin. 

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Ultralight Tents

You’ll need to have a look at your sleep system fastidiously as properly, since in a single day temps can drop significantly on the JMT, particularly within the valleys. Be ready for temps as chilly as freezing (colder if you happen to plan on mountaineering close to the tip of September). If it is advisable to improve your sleep system to account for these decrease temps, think about upgrading to a quilt and insulated sleeping pad mixture, which is a extra environment friendly technique to maximize heat to weight. 

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Backpacking Quilts

Whilst you can probably minimize a big quantity of weight by switching to the most effective ultralight backpacks, it’s finest to solely do that if you happen to plan to get your general base weight beneath 20 kilos. Most ultralight backpacks are usually uncomfortable when full of hundreds in extra of 35 kilos, and also you’re going to have a couple of substantial meals carries on this hike. 

JMT Necessities

There are a couple of gadgets that you just’ll have to deliver in your JMT hike that won’t already be in your backpacking equipment:

  • Bear Canister: Whereas OL has examined the finest bear canisters, what’s vital for you is the record of bear canisters that the land businesses have permitted for the JMT. From this record of permitted canisters, I like to recommend you go together with both the BearVault or the Bearikade, relying on the dimensions you suppose you want. The bears of Yosemite are very artful on the subject of snatching thru-hikers meals, so don’t skimp on this required step. 
  • Map: Whilst you can obtain some glorious apps with mapping and path notes (FarOut is usually essentially the most used possibility for this objective), in distant stretches of wilderness just like the JMT, having a bodily map is a should. I like to recommend the Nationwide Geographic model. 
  • Satellite tv for pc Messenger: That is distant wilderness. You’ll not have mobile phone reception. Bringing a satellite tv for pc messenger can present anxious family members again dwelling with peace of thoughts, and provide the instruments it is advisable to attain out to native SAR for assist in the occasion of calamity.

Learn Subsequent: Greatest Private Locator Beacons and Satellite tv for pc Messengers

  • Microspikes or Ice Cleats: If there’s nonetheless snow on the passes, you’ll need to carry a pair of light-weight microspikes or ice cleats. In tandem together with your trekking poles, these will enhance your traction and stability, permitting you to hike quicker and extra safely. Within the runup to your begin date, verify your FarOut app and group boards on Fb and Reddit to get a way of what sort of snow you’ll seemingly be encountering. If there’s nonetheless deep snow alongside the mountain passes (there was once I hiked it), do not forget that it’s typically simpler to journey throughout snow within the early morning, when the snow continues to be agency. Later within the day you’ll be extra in danger for postholing (punching by way of the snow with every step), which may be very tiring and can gradual your progress. 

Learn Subsequent: Greatest Microspikes or Ice Cleats

  • Bug Spray: On the peak of summer time, when the bottom continues to be damp from melted snow, the mosquitoes might be an absolute nightmare. The worst mosquitoes I’ve ever skilled have been in Yosemite Nationwide Park — tons of of them plastered the mesh of our tent in any respect hours, simply ready for us to emerge. As a result of it’s tough to foretell precisely when the worst of the skeeters will happen, you’re going to need to come totally ready. I like to recommend spraying down all of your clothes in permethrin earlier than you permit, and carrying each a head web and the best proportion DEET you’ll be able to stand. Notice: In the event you use DEET in your pores and skin, you shouldn’t try to scrub your self off in any of the pristine mountain lakes you encounter. Attempt spraying it in your clothes as an alternative. 
Woman standing in a lake in the High Sierra
Taking a dip in one of many Sierra Nevada’s many mountain lakes is an effective way to beat the warmth, however attempt to keep away from including bug spray or sunscreen to those delicate ecosystems.  Adam Tycaster

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Mosquito Repellents

  • Excessive SPF sunscreen. The JMT may be very excessive — typically properly above 10,000 ft — and most of it is rather uncovered. Even for people who’re already tan or who’ve extra melatonin naturally, sunburning might be a difficulty (my nostril peeled for weeks after mountaineering the JMT). I like to recommend upping your present go-to SPF by about 20 and bringing alongside a small tube to use to extra delicate areas like your nostril and the tops of your ears at a minimal. If you recognize you might be susceptible to burning even at decrease elevations then it’s best to plan to reapply each few hours. 
Near the top of Forrester Pass
Close to the highest of 13,153-foot Forrester Cross, one of many highest factors alongside the John Muir Path.  Laura Lancaster

For nearly all aspiring JMT hikers, the elevation may also be a big hurdle. If you recognize that you just wrestle with altitude illness at elevation, think about talking together with your physician about whether or not or not you’re a candidate for medicines that may assist to alleviate this, reminiscent of Diamox. Everybody ought to familiarize themselves with the signs of altitude illness and know what to do within the occasion they begin to really feel light-headed. 

What To not Deliver

One of many best methods to lighten your load in your thru-hike of the John Muir Path is by eliminating the entire non-essentials out of your pack. Numerous these shall be simple to determine: hammock, tenting chair, mirror, flask. However there are different gadgets that may add up too if you happen to aren’t cautious. A full tube of toothpaste, when a miniature model would do superb. A plate and a bowl on your meals. A miniature lantern on your tent along with a flashlight. A number of months earlier than your hike, experiment with eradicating every part out of your pack that isn’t important to your well being and security: clothes stuff sacks, hairbrush, french press plunger. See the way it feels to put on your now much-lighter pack out in your subsequent coaching hike. Now you’ll be able to add again within the gear that you just nonetheless suppose you’ll need. 

Step 4: Logistics and Resupply Bins

When you’ve been coaching for some time, knocking off 10 miles in a couple of hours in your thru-hiking footwear, you might begin to really feel a bit bold. Perhaps you’ll have the ability to hike extra miles a day than you suppose. 

That is fallacious. The John Muir Path may be very bodily demanding, particularly if there’s any lingering snow. No matter your objective every day mileage is, plan to knock it again by about 25 %. Most individuals will want about three weeks. In the event you’re very bodily match, you would possibly have the ability to get it achieved in two. However you gained’t remorse having extra time and feeling much less rushed in your hike. 

Mountain reflection in lake on the JMT
Climbing 211 miles in two weeks whereas nonetheless taking the time to soak in views like it is a robust needle to string. Richard Lancaster

Whilst you can, and a few folks do, plan out the place they’ll spend each night time on path, most individuals discover that it’s simpler to estimate the variety of miles they’re comfy mountaineering in a day, and plan their provides and meals primarily based on that. The JMT has loads of lovely campsites which are clearly marked, so that you’ll typically have the ability to discover camp for the night time with out too many difficulties. The preferred choices shall be marked on the paper map you’re carrying, however the FarOut app could have notes on the precise location of each patch of grime that might conceivably match a one-person tent. Like all trails, there shall be climate (such because the potential for afternoon lightning storms on the peak of summer time) and terrain situations (reminiscent of lingering snowfields and excessive rivers) that may also have an effect on how rapidly you’ll be able to hike. 

A observe on the elevation profile. Whereas the path may be very excessive, particularly if you happen to’re coming from sea degree, the best elevations are within the southern portion of the path. Due to that, most individuals will want to begin in Yosemite Valley (round 4,000 ft), and make their means as much as Cathedral Cross (10,000 ft) over the primary couple of days. In the event you begin at Whitney Portal (8,000 ft), you’ll climb up 5,000 ft throughout the first couple of days (greater if you happen to plan to take the 2-mile detour to the highest of Mount Whitney). Your physique can and can modify to the elevation so long as you are taking it gradual, however anticipate to really feel sluggish whilst you’re adjusting to the low oxygen situations. Your first 4 or 5 days on path could possibly be very gradual, so account for that in your anticipated mileage. 

Resupply Bins

Three weeks is a very long time to be within the wilderness, and also you gained’t have the ability to carry all of the meals you want for the complete stretch in a single go. As a substitute, you’ll have to plan to “resupply” — choosing up further provides alongside the best way. However, it’s unlawful to cache meals immediately on path. Under you’ll discover resupply choices with related mileage for southbound hikers. Contemplate what number of days of meals you might be comfy carrying at a time, and plan to ship resupply containers (or buckets, relying) accordingly.  

Mile 24: Tuolumne Meadows

As you move by way of Tuolumne Meadows en path to Donahue Cross, you’ll be inside spitting distance of the Tuolumne Meadows Normal Retailer and the Tuolumne Meadows Submit Workplace, conveniently situated in the identical constructing. You possibly can both ship a resupply field to them with the meals you’ll need to carry for the subsequent part, or buy what you need to carry with you. I like to recommend planning on a mixture of each, as the choice on the Normal Retailer, whereas catering to hikers and thru-hikers is considerably restricted and costly.

The one catch right here is that they’re solely open three months of the yr, so be sure you double verify that the put up workplace is open earlier than sending your field. I like to recommend calling Yosemite Nationwide Park and confirming with a park ranger there each the opening date of the shop and the put up workplace in addition to the precise handle to make use of. 

Mile 57: Pink’s Meadows

Privately owned resort Pink’s Meadows is only a quarter mile off path, making it one other apparent spot to cease alongside the John Muir Path. Observe the instructions on their web site when sending a resupply field. 

Mile 90: Vermilion Valley Resort

Vermilion Valley Resort, typically shortened to VVR, is one other privately owned resort that caters to thru-hikers. Whereas they do promote some resupply items out of their basic retailer, the choices are considerably restricted. Observe the instructions on their web site when sending a resupply field. VVR is a couple of miles off path, though throughout excessive water years they’re generally capable of run a ferry throughout Edison Lake. Though a bit tougher to entry than different resupply choices, getting a beer, a scorching meal, and a bathe at VVR is a superb refresh for the spirits earlier than coming into the hardest portion of the path. 

Mile 112: Muir Path Ranch

One other resort that may maintain packages for thru-hikers; nevertheless, this one is nearer to the path than VVR is. Notice that there’s restricted to no further companies for hikers. Observe their instructions when spending a package deal. 

Mile 178: Kearsarge Cross

Most hikers might want to resupply between Muir Path Ranch and Whitney Portal, and one of the best ways to do that is by leaving the path and mountaineering 6.5 miles over Kearsarge Cross and right down to the Onion Valley Trailhead. There aren’t any companies on the trailhead, so except you might have somebody assembly you there, you’ll have to hitchhike right down to Independence (which has a put up workplace however few different companies) or additional alongside to Bishop, which has most facilities that hikers will need, together with inns, gear retailers, and grocery shops. Hitchhiking can sound intimidating if you happen to’ve by no means achieved it earlier than, however the locals who frequent the Onion Valley Trailhead are usually fairly beneficiant about choosing up and dropping off hikers. In my expertise, you’ll be able to anticipate it to take about an hour every means. 

Sunrise on the JMT
A morning dawn close to Emerald Lake alongside the John Muir Path. Laura Lancaster

Closing Ideas

The John Muir Path is likely one of the hardest lengthy trails within the nation. It’s also some of the lovely. In the event you’ve been fascinated with trying a thru-hike, this path is a very achievable objective, and positive to deliver reminiscences that you’ll cherish for years to come back. However be warned: Many individuals who hike the John Muir Path are impressed to try even longer trails, just like the Pacific Crest Path or Continental Divide Path. 

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